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Saturday, August 27, 2011

OMW Longstrike Issues

Today I hurriedly got to my mail box to discover the Orange Mod Works Longstrike Stage 1 Kit.  Almost instantly, I opened up my Whiteout Longstrike to install the kit to check it out.  After seeing such an excellent review of it on Nerf Mods and Reviews and seeing results of other proud OMW owners, I was eager to feel the power I had been seeing and reading about for a few weeks now.


The installation was flawless, even though I double checked things to make sure I didn't mess something up.  AR Removed, O-Ring Seal improved, Stage 1 kit set to go, I closed it all up and went to test fire.  The prime was tougher than I had expected, but with 6 kg of force (versus 2.5 in the original one), it needed that pull.  I manually loaded a Streamline into the barrel and shot... and just watched the foam fly.  It was a glorious moment!

I proceeded to load up an 18 Round Clip for some extended testing.  After about the third shot, the priming handle piece flew off.  I recovered it and resumed testing.  Then I kept running into issues with the Longstrike not priming correctly and my excitement slowly began to turn sour.  This was the same issue, I remembered, I had with my Longshot spring upgrade.  In order to fully prime the blaster, I needed both hands to pull the priming handle back evenly.
Because of the way a bolt-action blaster is set up, there is actually uneven tension in the priming system.  The Longstrike isn't designed to handle that much stress, so the parts bend a bit and when you prime it, sometimes while the one handle is all the way back, the other side doesn't quite make it.  This means the catch doesn't engage and you can't fire the blaster.  This is an issue I have yet to read about in the Longstrike and one I hope to remedy.

The other issue I ran into wasn't the kit at all... but the other downside I was reminded of when upgrading springs.  Streamline Darts are incredibly inaccurate!  While I was getting excellent ranges, about 1/3rd of my darts were flying off at different angles or spinning out of control the second they left the barrel.  So while the Longstrike now has a much greater range and packs a punch... it's not hardly accurate enough to still be called a "sniper" in my books.  

I think other OMW kits dodge the priming issue because of their design.  The priming handles on the Recon, Alpha Trooper, and Raider all distribute tension evenly.  The Handles actually hold BOTH sides of the bolt to slide it into place evenly.  However, the Longstrike has uneven tension because you prime from either the right or left side, leaving the other side without enough tension to complete the motion.  Hopefully I can find a solution for this.  Any suggestions or help are more than welcome (please comment!)

5 comments:

  1. I had the same issue when I modded my longshot by adding a spring, so I ended up taking the spring out again. I have heard of people reinforcing the bolt sled, but I guess the OMW stage 2 kit for the longstrike would solve the problem when it comes out?

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  2. Stage 2 doesn't even have a release date on it yet, so that's quite awhile to wait to truly enjoy this kit. I'm thinking of building a pump-action reload (which I've seen on Longshots before). Maybe that would solve my problem.

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  3. I have a tendency to wonder why it is the Longstrike bolt design suffers so much from the uneven tension. You mention the Raider and Alpha Trooper applying even tension, but if you look at the internals, the priming grip has a thick wire that only leads to one side of the bolt, which -should- produce that same uneven pressure.

    While a shotgun grip would be lovely, I'm curious if putting a few washers in between the priming handle grips and the longstrike shell might remove that wobble space that allows the handle to pull back unevenly.

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  4. You make an excellent point, Kouri. Whatever the difference is in the priming designs of these blasters, it's still clear that the Longstrike's is not agreeing well with the new 6 kg spring in the OMW kit.

    I've also been thinking of a way to possibly prime from the back. Much like how a NiteFinder pulls straight back, perhaps I could attach a metal rod that would connect to the top of the assembly.

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